Italian food is experiencing a renaissance, which I define as a shift away from its seemingly unceasing background presence and making another move into the mainstream that seems to try and pass as edgy. The cheap ingredients and ease of bastardising have meant that Italian food has always been a constant in society, but with the rise in popularity of seaside southern Italy holidays among Instagram influencers, the popularity of this staple cuisine is back on everyone's mind. And it’s no longer the days of subpar Italian restaurants where the carbonara comes with ham and peas and the logo usually features a big moustache-clad chef in full whites.
Throughout the country, with a strong emphasis on London and Manchester, the Italian restaurant scene has skyrocketed and is now bustling with more scintillating dishes and a focus on high-quality ingredients. We’re moving away from the typical ‘Italian’ coin and instead becoming more specific and dedicated to specific regions of the Boot.
Sud, formerly known as Sugo after a certain lawsuit ordered them to change, is one of the brave, consistent, and creative brands constantly striving to bring the remarkable cuisine of Southern Italy to the areas they operate. They’re confident in their approach, fully committing to the pasta dishes and not giving in to the societal pressures of broadening their proposition. They’re good at what they do; they know it, and they want us all to know it, too.
My first endeavour to their quaint joint in the suburb of Altrincham was an alcohol-fuelled trip, one where I’m not scared to admit I don’t remember much. As a consolation, I remember thinking it was great despite my beer-laden mind. A return was very much in the offing.
On my first return (there have been many since), I had to dive deep into the House Sugo. This is their take on the classic ragu, slow-cooking beef shin and pork shoulder, lacing it with hot nduja before fusing it with orecchiette and presenting it in one of their superbly designed pasta bowls (some of which I will be buying after learning it was possible during my latest trip). It’s a hearty dish, suitable for a winter's night when it’s raining outside and you’ve just convinced your girlfriend that yes, ‘Goodfella’s’ is a Christmas film. Partner it with a good red wine (ask your server) and sit as your heart slowly fills and your soul is instantly soothed. I’m confident in my ragu-making abilities, and due to all the seemingly truthful positive feedback I’ve received when serving it to my friends and family, I become rather scrupulous when choosing ragu in a restaurant. I have literally no regrets.
I recently ventured back to Sud and this time, I loosened the purse strings (only slightly) and opted for antipasto. The starter on the menu that really struck a chord with me was the pork belly ribs. I’m a sucker for pork belly and it’d most definitely be on my list of top cuts of meat if I had one. They were Calabrian-spiced, typical of Italian cuisine, paired with a hispi cabbage salad and a basil slaw. I can’t grumble. The dish was good. It was never going to be a showstopper, though. But if you’re out and about, I’d recommend it.
From there, I moved away from the gravitational pull of the House Sugo and as a commitment to my ‘try something different’ attitude, I ordered the Amatriciana entirely based on my complete obsession with anything that’s got guanciale in. It’s a simple dish, but then isn’t that what most pasta dishes are at their core? This was a superb attempt at the Amatriciana sauce, which is typically a combination of guanciale, pecorino romano, a chilli pepper and tomatoes. Of course, with Sud being dedicated to the south (hence the name), the Calabrian chilli was prominent in this dish. I’m often riddled with angst when moving away from my normal because it’s always a huge gamble and if it doesn’t pay off, the whole experience of dining out at a restaurant is compromised. This? Entirely the opposite. The Amatriciana from Sud was a first-class dish, one that’s definitely worthy of sharing a spot on the menu with their famous ragu.
The meal was topped off with a limoncello, of course, and we headed on out into the night with our bellies full and our spirits high. A delicious trip, one filled with stories, character and connection, all with that added Italian flare. Pasta really is a simple concept but to do it well is an entirely different ball game and Sud do it well, trust me.
My visit came prior to their recent '12 plates' menu, which is a change to their offering that has certainly split the opinion. It’s a pasta-focused, Italian take on tapas, meaning for groups to share and was met with a load of hostility but also a whole load of support, too. I’ve yet to try the new setup but will be doing so, I’m sure. And I’m sure the same attention, love and quality will be put into their meals as it was before their switch.